Nobody’s sorry to say goodbye to the Chinese Year of the Tiger, with its roaring bad luck, snarling bad moods, and seemingly inexhaustible supply of bad news. Scholars of the Chinese zodiac blame Tiger for the devastated economy, nasty politics, global unrest, Biblical snow and ice, as well as low self-esteem and high health-insurance premiums.
A collective exhale has been blowing through Chinatown (along with acrtic winds and a few more feet of snow) as the neighborhood prepares to greet lunar year 4079 and its guiding spirit, Rabbit. In addition to the relief that some cosmic ASPCA is about to capture Tiger and move him to a heavily guarded, no-kill facility upstate, there is also a growing conviction that Rabbit can deliver us from Tiger’s Axis of Evil. Or at least serve as a reminder that tenderness, fecundity, and the occasional lighthearted hop are options.
In recent days, Grace Young, author of Stir-Frying to the Sky’s Edge, has experienced a growing sense of optimism. In her case, it is not clear whether Rabbit or well-earned luck is responsible for what she calls “a most auspicious beginning of the year”—a recent passel of glowing press mentions and her appearance this morning on The Martha Stewart Show. Ms. Young is quick to point out that there is a reason why people carry a rabbit’s foot for luck. I would like to point out that there is a reason why people are responding to her most recent book. It’s wonderful.
Full of fresh, fast, vegetable-centric recipes that are low in fat, high in flavor, and seasoned with (but not dependent upon) meat, Stir-Frying to the Sky’s Edge is a book for a time-pressed, health-concerned, belt-tightened world. While they’re magnificently updated, the recipes leap from a cooking tradition based on an acute awareness of the cost of cooking energy—both in terms of fuel and chop-chop—that Americans are only now beginning to consider. In addition, the Chinese understanding of food as medicine for the body is so longstanding as to have become instinctual, and this frees the cook to pursue the unbridled deliciousness that has been known to make ears perk and noses quiver.
Classic Dry-Fried Pepper and Salt Shrimp
New York, New YorkThere are many version of this beloved dry stir-fry. The absence of liquid in the stir-fry allows you to experience a concentrated shrimp flavor accented by garlic, ginger, chilies, and Sichuan peppercorns. For this reason, it’s imperative to use the freshest ingredients. In recent years, my fishmonger has been carrying fresh shrimp, and in this recipe you can really taste the difference. Defrosted frozen shrimp will work; just make sure they’re of the best quality possible.
- 2 tablespoons plus 1/2 teaspoon salt
- 1 pound large shrimp, peeled and deveined
- 1/4 teaspoon sugar
- 1/4 teaspoon roasted and ground Sichuan peppercorns
- 2 tablespoons peanut or vegetable oil
- 1 tablespoon minced garlic
- 1 tablespoon minced ginger
- 1 teaspoon minced jalapeño chili, with seeds
1. In a large bowl, combine 1 tablespoon of the salt with 1 quart cold water. Add the shrimp and swish the shrimp in the water with your hand for about 30 seconds. Drain. Add 1 more tablespoon salt to the bowl with 1 quart of cold water and repeat. Rinse the shrimp under cold water and set on several sheets of paper towels. With more paper towels, pat the shrimp dry. In a small bowl, combine the remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt, sugar, and ground Sichuan peppercorns.
2. Heat a 14-inch flat-bottomed wok or a 12-inch skillet over high heat until a bead of water vaporizes within 1 to 2 seconds of contact. Swirl in 1 tablespoon of the oil, add the garlic, ginger, and chili, then—using a metal spatula—stir-fry 10 seconds or until the aromatics are fragrant. Push the garlic mixture to the sides of the wok, carefully add the shrimp, and spread them evenly in one layer in the wok. Cook undisturbed 1 minute, letting the shrimp begin to sear. Swirl in the remaining 1 tablespoon oil and stir-fry 1 minute or until the shrimp just begin to turn orange. Sprinkle on the salt mixture and stir-fry 1 to 2 minutes or until the shrimp are just cooked.
Serves 2 as a main dish with rice or 4 as part of a multicourse meal
